Potato salad might be a staple at American picnics, but it traveled the world to get here. There are German potato salads and French potato salads.
Four women who came to the South from all over the globe, share their country’s potato salad recipes: Taiwanese-style, with apple and ham. Peruvian, with layers of egg salad. Indian, with a punch of spices and yogurt.
Each woman talks about how her country’s food shows up in America and how to make a potato salad that reflects her heritage.
That’s the real American way: We’re not a melting pot. We’re a salad.
ALICE CHANG, Charlotte, N.C.
Her story: Her family is from China, but her parents grew up in Taiwan. She was born in Little Rock, Ark., and raised in Raleigh, N.C., where her mother owns the store Grand Asia. Chang moved to Charlotte last year to open the new Grand Asia in Stallings, N.C.
Her food: In Taiwan, people love trends. “They’re always coming p with new desserts, new snacks. They’re always changing things.”
Her food here: She loves America’s willingness to try things and make them our own. She thinks it’s great when customers use products in ways they wouldn’t be used in Asia. “There’s really no right or wrong in eating food. As long as people like it, you’re getting it right.”
Potato salad: “Who doesn’t love potatoes? We put potatoes in stews and in stir-fries.” In Taiwanese potato salad, everything is diced to be the same size, with a lot of colors, including apple. “It adds a crunchiness and a sweetness.”
SANDRA GUTIERREZ, Cary, N.C.
Her story: Though she was born in Philadelphia, her family returned to Guatemala when she was a child, and she lived there until she was 18. A food writer and culinary instructor, her first book, “The New Southern-Latino Table,” is being published in September. “I traveled a lot through Latin America. So I have a good perspective.”
Her food: Guatemalan food combines Mayan and continental influences from Spain, France and Germany. “It’s a very eclectic cuisine.”
Her food here: “Everyone is familiar with Mexican, but the other 22 cuisines (of Latin America) have a lot to offer. Everyone thinks we eat the same things, but we don’t.”
Potato salad: Potatoes are native to the Andes, and there are dozens of kinds in Peru. Her potato salad is based on a layered Peruvian version called a causa. “It’s a beautiful salad. They press (the layers) together and serve it either individually, or they make huge salads in a dome shape they uncover, so you can see the layers.”
JYOTSNA JAIGAI, Chapel Hill, N.C.
Her story: She was born in Colorado to parents from India. She does public health research for the Environmental Protection Agency, specializing in water issues. She also writes a blog, masalawala.wordpress.com, about her dining experiences.
Her food: “At home, we were Indian through and through.” In areas with a large Indian population, her family would have sought out friends from their own region. But in Colorado, they socialized with people from all over India, so she was exposed to a variety of customs.
Her food here: America has adopted a lot of Indian food recently, including lentil soups and curries. She sees tikka masalas and Indian breads like naan in delis. “Those flavor combinations are more complex, and we’re growing to like it and crave it. We’re just getting more diverse and knowledgeable.”
Potato salad: Her generation is adapting flavors, like her curried potato salad. “My Indian cooking is very different from my mother’s Indian cooking. When we go back to India now, it’s kind of confusing for my parents. India has changed so much.”
VIRGINIE STEWART, Charlotte, N.C.
Her story: A native of Paris, she was living in Vietnam when she met her British husband. She’s a real estate broker and French teacher who just stepped down after three years as president of Charlotte’s chapter of Alliance Francais.
Her food: “Things like quiche, like coq au vin, those are things my American friends cook.” They’ve become so familiar, she thinks Americans don’t always realize those started in France.
Her food here: “What we really enjoy here is actually meat. The beef is amazing. You eat a steak here, you eat it (in France), it’s two different things. People say it’s softer here, it’s like butter in your mouth.”
Potato salad: “There’s something very simple we do, just with parsley, white wine and shallots.” Salade Nicoise is more elaborate, with potatoes, green beans, onions, tomatoes and black olives. Instead of tuna, it might have bacon, cold meat or no meat at all. “It’s very French.”
SALADE NICOISE
2 pounds baby red potatoes, scrubbed
4 eggs
1 pound green beans, stem ends trimmed
4 tomatoes, cored and cut in wedges
1 cup black olives, such as kalamata or nicoise
1 can oil-packed tuna
Parsley sprigs (optional garnish)
Vinaigrette:
2 tablespoons vinegar (such as red or white wine vinegar or sherry)
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Prepare a bowl of ice water and set aside.
Place the potatoes and eggs in the boiling water. Cook 12 minutes. Remove eggs with a slotted spoon and rinse with cold water.
Add the green beans to the boiling water and continue cooking about 8 minutes, until green beans are crisp-tender and potatoes can be pierced with a knife. Remove green beans with a slotted spoon and place in the ice water. Drain potatoes and let stand until cool enough to handle. Remove green beans from ice water and roll in paper towels to dry.
Make vinaigrette while potatoes are cooking: Whisk vinegar and mustard in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in oil, starting with a few drops and working up to a small stream. Season with salt and pepper.
Slice potatoes while warm. Toss potato slices and green beans with about half the vinaigrette. Arrange on a large platter. Peel and slice the eggs. Arrange tomato wedges, egg slices and olives on the green beans and potato slices. Top with tuna. Drizzle with remaining vinaigrette. Serve at room temperature. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
Source: Adapted from Virginie Stewart, Charlotte.
Note: The classic version has canned tuna, but you also can omit the tuna to make it a side dish.
TAIWANESE POTATO SALAD
2 russet potatoes, cut in half
1 large or several small carrots, peeled and cut in half
2 eggs
1 small cucumber, peeled and diced
½ of a Fuji apple, cored and diced
4 ounces whole ham, diced
1/3 cup frozen peas, rinsed to thaw
Taiwanese-style mayonnaise:
1 egg
11/4 cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons evaporated milk
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon white vinegar or lemon juice
Bring a large pot of water to boil and add potato halves, carrot and eggs. Cook 10 minutes and remove eggs with a slotted spoon. Set aside to cool. Cook 5 minutes longer. Drain potatoes and carrot. Rinse potatoes under cold water and peel off skin.
Dice potato and carrot and place in a bowl. Peel egg, set aside yolk for another use and dice egg whites. Add to bowl.
Add cucumber, apple, ham and peas. Add about 3/4 cup mayonnaise and stir until everything is coated. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
TAIWANESE MAYONNAISE
Whisk or beat egg and a little oil. Slowly whisk or beat in oil, starting with drops and moving up to a small, steady stream. Whisk in evaporated milk, salt, sugar and vinegar or lemon juice. Makes about 3 cups. Refrigerate remainder and use within 1 or 2 days. Note that people in high-risk groups should not consume raw egg. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
Source: From Alice Chang of Charlotte.
Note: In Taiwan, all of the pieces are diced to the same size. The mixture is sometimes served between bread slices as a sandwich. If you don’t want to make the mayonnaise, use commercial mayo thinned with a little evaporated milk.
CURRY POTATO SALAD
2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut in ½-inch dice
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cups frozen peas, rinsed to thaw
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon red chili powder
1 small or ½ medium red onion, minced (about 1 cup)
2 cups Greek-style plain yogurt
6 tablespoons lemon juice, or more for a thinner, tangier dressing
2 tablespoons cilantro (optional)
Place potatoes in a pot, cover with water and bring to boil. Cook 10 to 15 minutes, until fork tender. Remove from heat and drain, leaving potatoes in the pot. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and leave in the pot until slightly cooled.
Place canola oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add cumin, coriander, turmeric and chili powder and cook about 5 minutes. Add onion and continue cooking until onion is soft, about 10 minutes.
Stir together yogurt, lemon juice and onion mixture in a large serving bowl. Add potatoes, peas and cilantro and mix gently to combine. Refrigerate for 1 hour or up to 24 hours. Serve cold or at room temperature. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
Source: From Jyotsna Jaigai, adapted from a recipe on the website www.food52.com.
PERUVIAN-STYLE LAYERED POTATO AND EGG SALAD
Potato layers:
4 pounds Yukon gold potatoes
½ cup minced white onion
1/3 cup fresh lime juice, preferably Key lime
1 teaspoon aji amarillo paste (see Note)
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
½ teaspoon ground black pepper, or to taste
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Egg layer:
9 hard-cooked eggs, finely chopped
½ cup pimento-stuffed olives, minced, plus 1 cup olives, sliced
2 tablespoons minced capers
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon yellow mustard
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of salt
1/4 cup minced chives
Spray a 13-by-9-by-2-inch casserole dish with cooking spray and set aside. Place whole potatoes in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook about 20 to 25 minutes, until knife-tender. Drain and let stand until cool enough to handle. Peel and place in a mixing bowl. Mash potatoes and stir in the onion.
Whisk together lime juice, aji amarillo, salt and pepper until the aji paste is dissolved. Whisk in oil. Pour the dressing over the potato mixture, stirring to combine well.
Combine the eggs, minced olives, capers, mayonnaise, mustard, pepper and salt in a medium bowl. Stir to combine well.
Spread half the potato mixture over the bottom of the prepared casserole. Spread all of the egg salad over the potato layer. Top with the remaining potatoes and spread to cover the egg layer. Garnish with olive slices and chives. Chill at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours before serving.
Source: “The New Southern-Latino Table,” by Sandra A. Gutierrez (UNC Press, available in September ).
Note: Aji amarillo paste is made from a yellow pepper that is traditionally used in Peru. You can find it in Latino supermarkets. You can substitute sriracha to replace the heat, although the color won’t be the same. Yield: 12 servings.
