If you've never had Country Captain prepared correctly, well, you're probably not from around here.
It's a chicken dish attributed to Mrs. W.L. Bullard, who had a summer home in Warm Springs, Ga., and often entertained President Franklin D. Roosevelt when he was a patient at the Warm Springs Institute.
If there is a centerpiece recipe in "Through the Years," the well-known cookbook amassed by the late Sara Spano, the former food editor at the Ledger-Enquirer, it's Country Captain. First published in 1985, the book has sold thousands of copies and is now being re-released.
You can get copies, which make great Christmas gifts, by coming by the Ledger-Enquirer's office on the first floor of the Hardaway Building, 945 Broadway, across from the RiverCenter. They're $15 apiece.
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"Through the Years" has sections on hors d'oeuvres, such as cheese straws and meats, such as Country Captain, of course, and settin' hens, which some people call Cornish hens. There's a recipe for baked squirrel, in case you have some handy. There are salad and vegetable recipes, casseroles and bread recipes, such as Miss Ada's Hoe Cakes.
There is a section on jams, jellies and preserves, including old-fashioned peach pickles. And of course there is a section on desserts, with boiled custard ice cream and one called Better than Sex Cake. Really. And, for the unreconstructed, there is a recipe for Jeff Davis Pie.
Spano collected the recipes during her 29 years at the Ledger-Enquirer, many of them spent as food editor. Most of the recipes include the name of the person who contributed it. Readers will recognize many of the names.