Gumbo. Jambalaya. Etouffee. This Cajun restaurant in Columbus gives you a taste of NOLA

You know what happens when you make assumptions.

Well, I was apprehensive that a Cajun-Creole restaurant in west Georgia could serve up something that wouldn’t utterly disappoint me. I assumed it wouldn’t be a good experience.

I was wrong. Cafe Le Rue made that very clear to me.

My fiancée is a native Louisianian. I lived in Shreveport, in the northwest corner of the state, for almost two years, and I spent a summer in New Orleans. The meal I had at this Columbus restaurant earlier this week wasn’t exactly like being back in the Bayou State. But it was good enough to conjure up some fond memories.

The Meal

Walking through Cafe Le Rue’s doors, you’ll first notice all the Louisiana-themed decorations and knick-knacks on the walls. It’s a small space with tables on each side and a clear walkway to a small bar.

Mike Haskey, the Ledger-Enquirer’s video extraordinaire, and I began studying the lunch menu after ordering our drinks. We ordered the crab dip appetizer to start and for his entree, Haskey opted for the sauteed shrimp and sausage over grits.

I went for something not listed on the lunch menu. Our server informed us that we could order the Cajun Sampler, three smaller portions of the cafe’s specials. I chose the seafood gumbo with shrimp and sausage, the shredded chicken and sausage jambalaya, and the shrimp and crawfish etouffee over rice.

The crab dip came to our table first, and it quickly put any worries I had to rest. The cheesy, well-seasoned dip came with crispy, homestyle potato chips.

There weren’t large lumps of crab meat present. Instead, the meat seamlessly blended with the cheeses and hot sauce. It had a little spicy heat, and the cheese strung upward when you dipped your chip. I mindlessly and compulsively continued to eat the dip until our meals arrived.

My three dishes arrived at the table, piled high in their cups. My favorite of the three was the jambalaya, a rice-based dish. It was a little smoky and a little spicy. The rice was fluffy, and the sausage was perfectly prepared.

The gumbo was a little different than what I’m accustomed to eating. This gumbo had tomatoes in it — a controversial addition that divides some Louisianians. There are memes and internet forum boards that have debated the topic at length. Those who don’t want tomatoes in the dish make it very clear. (To keep it simple and general, creole cuisine often features tomatoes. Proper Cajun food does not.)

I prefer it without, but it isn’t a deal-breaker. You can certainly taste them. The gumbo was thinner than I normally like as well. Roux, flour and cooking fat combined in a pan and browned, is typically used to thicken up dishes. And I like mine thick. Still, the gumbo, served atop rice, hit a sweet spot on a cold day. I finished my cup.

The etouffee featured a much redder hue and stronger tomato flavor than the gumbo. It’s also a bit thicker — the word originates from the French étouffer, which means to smother or suffocate. The crawfish bits were small and tender. The shrimp were large.

Haskey’s grits were great. A little cheese and salt added to the dish might make this my go-to order here.

The service was outstanding. Our server answered all of our questions. She took a photo for a young family sitting at a table across from us, and she even made us a fresh pot of coffee.

I was approaching maximum fullness when I remembered the dessert menu. We ordered the beignets with a strawberry topping. Beignets, for those not familiar, are square pieces of dough, fried and covered in powdered sugar. Think of them as the love child of a doughnut and a funnel cake. The strawberry topping is an extra addition. I like the fruit. What can I say?

I like thicker beignets, but I ate as much as I could before I had to surrender to the food. I sat at the table in a stupor. I was full and happy.

Final thoughts

As we waited for the check and the food digested, I bored Haskey with stories about Louisiana and my time there. For the food to evoke those memories, it is a good sign.

Food is often the truest expression of self and place. It’s a physical snapshot. It is the result of generations of accumulated knowledge and, sometimes, the ingenuity to make do with whatever it is that you have.

I knew that I wasn’t in Louisiana. But it was a tasty reminder. For the appetizer, dessert and my sampler meal, I spent a little over $37. Haskey’s topped out at around $15.

I feel like this is a place I could bring my fiancée. She’d find something on the menu she’d like. And for those of you who’ve never had any Cajun or Creole food, this is a good place to start right here in Columbus.

Cafe Le Rue

Address: 2523 Airport Thruway in the Landings Shopping Center, Columbus

Hours: 11 a.m. - 3p.m., 5-9 p.m., Monday- Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. - 3 p.m., Sunday brunch

Nick Wooten

Columbus Ledger-Enquirer

Nick Wooten is the Accountability/Investigative reporter for the Ledger-Enquirer where he is responsible for covering several topics, including Georgia politics. His work may also appear in the Macon Telegraph. Nick was given the Georgia Press Association’s 2021 Emerging Journalist award for his coverage of elections, COVID-19 and Columbus’ LGBTQ+ community. Before joining McClatchy, he worked for The (Shreveport La.) Times covering city government and investigations. He is a graduate of Mercer University in Macon, Georgia.