They say they have ‘the best damn fish and chips’ in Columbus. I put it to the test.
I didn’t hear my fish and fries drop into the oil at Skippers Fresh Seafood Market & Deli earlier this week when I stopped for lunch, but the deep fried smells that followed lulled me into a state of blissful oneness with the universe.
Seafood is magical, and Skippers is a testament to its power.
At a quick glance, you might be tempted to say that Skippers doesn’t feel like Columbus. The nautically-themed interior with knick-knacks and fishing net hanging from the walls doesn’t seem like it would be found this far inland.
But it is a uniquely local institution. Once you take your seat, you might see some Carver High School memorabilia — a reminder that you have not left Muscogee County.
Skippers claims to have the “best damn fish and chips in Columbus,” and I was determined to test that claim. The dish traces its origins to England, and fried cod or haddock fish served alongside a bed of fries is typically what you’d get.
However, owner Ronzell Buckner, who was our server during our visit, recommended I order the 3-piece flounder. The meal came with two hush puppies, a pile of fries, a side of coleslaw, pickles and two onion slices on top. I opted for the spicy tartar sauce as my dipping choice.
His recommendation also came with a warning: it’s a big meal, and you’ll likely end up wanting to take a nap. I thought I was just the man for the challenge.
Mike Haskey, the Ledger-Enquirer’s video extraordinaire, ordered from Skipper’s lunch menu. He opted for the 2-piece catfish fillet with fries, coleslaw, pickles and onion slices. Mike also chose the spicy tartar sauce.
The meals were cooked to order, and the heat radiated off the paper basket as it was set down in front of me. Buckner is no liar. The portions were indeed huge.
The fries were a little cooler. So, I decided that would be my first bite. I dunked a solitary fry in tartar sauce, took a bite and closed my eyes.
The tartar sauce was slightly sweet and had a hint of spiciness that built towards the end. If it were socially acceptable to bathe in a sauce, I’d choose Skippers spicy tartar. If forced to consume one sauce and one sauce only for the rest of my days, it’d be this sauce.
While I sometimes put malt vinegar on my fries when eating fried fish, I typically do it when the fries are a little underseasoned or undersalted to compensate for a lack of flavor. These fries, sprinkled with a little seasoning salt and dipped in the tartar, were perfect the way they were.
But, it’s the fish that makes the meal.
The fillets had a crispy and slightly spicy coating. The flounder by itself had a firm texture and a mild, sweet flavor. I ate as much as I could before I got full.
Haskey was nice enough to let me try his catfish as well. Those fillets weren’t as thickly coated, but his fish was pull-apart tender. Both the flounder and the catfish may have been the most well prepared fried fish I’ve ever eaten.
The coleslaw was a pleasant change of pace in between the fish and fries. There was no kick of vinegar like you’d find in other coleslaws, but the taste of sweet pickles was strong and clear. The hush puppies, which reminded me of jalapeno cornbread, were sweet and spicy. The final ball became a vehicle for whatever tartar sauce was left at the bottom of my container near the end of the meal.
I sat at the table with half a piece of fish left. I’d been defeated. I was already sleepy, and the day was still relatively young. After Haskey finished his meal, we went to the register to pay our bills. Haskey’s meal was about $8.50. I paid about $20 for my larger lunch and an after-meal slice of sweet potato pie which was enjoyed back at the office.
I felt at home the minute I walked in the door, and I most certainly will come back to sample Skippers’ oysters and other non-fried seafood items. This is a place that should be a staple for all of Columbus’ seafood lovers.
Skippers Fresh Seafood Market & Deli
3505 Buena Vista Road, Columbus
Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
BEHIND THE STORY
MOREWhat is Foodie Friday?
Foodie Friday is a bi-weekly series by the Ledger Enquirer that highlights the robust and diverse food and restaurant scene in Columbus. Reporter Nick Wooten is a Columbus transplant whose goal is to try a little bit of everything the Columbus area has to offer. We choose restaurants at random, pay for the meals and don’t tell managers about our visit until the meal is over, or we go anonymous. If you have a suggestion for a Foodie Friday profile, email Nick at nwooten@mcclatchy.com.