This Phenix City meat-and-three serves fall-off-the-bone chicken. Here’s what else we ate
I missed my turn while driving to Ed’s Bar-b-que and Country Cooking in Phenix City earlier this week, but you can bet I’ll remember the directions next time around. You don’t forget a meal like that.
In the bend where 11th Avenue becomes 12th Place, this old school meat-and-three cafeteria style joint serves up southern classics, and cars began to fill the large parking lot as we pulled in.
Just as with other restaurants like it, Ed’s serves a rotating menu of entrees and sides based on the day. Mike Haskey, the Ledger-Enquirer’s video extraordinaire, and I stood frozen in line as we debated Wednesday’s choices.
I opted for the baked chicken with dressing and a smidgen of cranberry sauce. Squash and collard greens occupied the other pockets of my foam container. Haskey went with the ribs, cabbage and boiled okra.
Thighs are usually my favorite cut, and Ed’s didn’t disappoint. It sat in a small puddle of pan drippings, and all it took was a little nudge from my plastic fork to release the meat from the bone. The chicken was tender, and the top of the peppery skin was crispy.
The breast was huge, taking up much of the container. It lacked some of the thigh’s juiciness, but the white meat was still fall-off-the-bone tender.
The dressing was the surprise of the meal. Too often in life, I’ve experienced dried-out dressing. But here, they’ve got the bread to broth ratio down right (and the chicken drippings only made it better). Bites of the chicken, dressing and cranberry sauce together were my favorite parts of the meal.
I’ve recently discovered a love for squash, and Ed’s was perfectly cooked. They were lightly peppered and smooth with each bite.
The collards were excellent. I didn’t need to add any pepper sauce or salt to the dish. They were a little sweet, but the smoky pork flavors came through the strongest. I had to navigate around the occasional bone, but that’s to be expected — that’s how you know the flavor is honest.
Haskey enjoyed his tender ribs and well-cooked cabbage, but it was the okra that he talked about. He was kind enough to share a bite, and I was amazed at how good the boiled plant was. Fried okra is great. But most of the time, folks end up overcooking boiled okra, leaving it slimy. Not at Ed’s. The side remained intact.
I didn’t get a slice of Ed’s cake. I was too full from my meal to even think about getting dessert. I ended up taking my leftovers home for a snack later in the day, but the untried desserts just give me an excuse to return in the near future. We left happy and full.
If you’re looking for a meat-and-three you can visit again and again, Ed’s should be on your list.
If you go
Ed’s Bar-b-Que and Country Cooking
Address: 1017 12th Place, Phenix City
Hours: Open 7 days a week, 10:30 a.m. - 8 p.m.
This story was originally published June 18, 2021 at 11:00 AM.